Kertem – Budapest’s beloved garden bar, reimagined in Kőbánya

Budapest has long been famous for its ruin pubs: quirky, atmospheric drinking spots that turned abandoned buildings into vibrant hubs of nightlife and culture. Among them, Kertem (meaning “My Garden”) has held a special place in the hearts of locals and travelers alike. Once tucked away in City Park (Városliget), Kertem was a summer sanctuary where friends, families, students, and backpackers gathered under fairy lights for cheap drinks, live music, and the city’s most iconic Balkan Burgers. Although its original location closed in 2014 and it wandered for a few years, Kertem found a permanent new home in Kőbánya in 2021. Today, it continues to capture that same free-spirited vibe—just in a slightly different setting.

If you’re visiting Budapest and want to experience a more laid-back side of its nightlife, Kertem should be high on your list. Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your visit.

From City Park to Kőbánya – The story of Kertem

For years, Kertem was a hidden treasure in Városliget. It wasn’t just another ruin pub; it was more like a community hangout where grandparents could sip spritzers while children played tag nearby, and students lounged with cold beers after class. Its outdoor seating, dog-friendly policy, and grassroots concerts made it feel more like a festival garden than a bar.

But as City Park underwent major renovations, Kertem was forced to close and reinvent itself. After a nomadic period, it finally reopened in District X (Kőbánya), an area historically known for breweries and factories. At first glance, the industrial setting might seem unlikely for a garden bar, but Kertem thrives here. By turning a former vehicle repair site into a colorful, bohemian oasis, it has kept its soul alive while adding a fresh layer of character.

The atmosphere – relaxed, retro, and very local

Walking into Kertem feels like stepping into someone’s backyard party—only bigger and livelier. Retro chairs and mismatched tables are scattered around a spacious courtyard. Fairy lights crisscross overhead, while murals and graffiti hint at the city’s underground creative culture. There’s no dress code, no pretension, and no rush. People come here to unwind, not to impress.

Kertem’s charm lies in its inclusivity. You’ll see families with kids, groups of international students, young professionals, and older locals who have followed the bar since its Városliget days. Dogs trot happily between tables, often welcomed with a water bowl by the staff. Music ranges from indie rock to funk, with occasional live bands or DJs that get people dancing late into the night. On weekends, it often feels more like a street festival than a bar.

At Kertem, there’s always something happening beyond food and drinks. The bar regularly hosts live concerts, open-air cinema nights, and even dog adoption days, making it not just a place to relax, but also a lively community hub where locals and travelers connect.

Check their Facebook page for upcoming events.

Getting there – A small sdventure worth taking

One of the reasons Kertem remains off the beaten tourist path is its location. Nestled in Kőbánya (District X), it’s a short trip from the city center but far enough to feel like an escape.

By tram: Tram 1 from Népliget is a convenient option, dropping you within walking distance in just a few stops.
By bus: Bus 9 runs directly from Deák Ferenc tér, the central square, in about 20 minutes.
By tram from Blaha Lujza tér: Lines 28, 28A, and 62 also get you there in about 15 minutes.
By car: Free street parking is usually available nearby, which is a rarity in Budapest nightlife.

Getting to Kertem feels like a mini adventure, but that’s part of the appeal. Once you arrive, you realize you’ve stepped into a pocket of the city few tourists get to see.

Food and drinks – more than just a bar

One of the reasons Kertem has remained so beloved is its food. While many ruin pubs stick to drinks and bar snacks, Kertem has always prided itself on serving hearty, satisfying meals.

The Famous Balkan Burger: This is the undisputed star of the menu. Unlike a typical burger, the pljeskavica-style patty comes tucked into warm flatbread, topped with fresh vegetables and often a tangy ajvar (pepper spread). It’s messy, delicious, and unforgettable.
Grilled Sausages (Marhakolbász): A Hungarian twist on barbecue classics, these beef sausages are smoky and rich, served with flatbread and crisp veggies.
Salads with a Twist: For lighter appetites, the Caesar Salad or the Gomolya Grilled Cheese Salad offer refreshing alternatives that still feel indulgent.
Tapas and Spreads: Perfect for sharing with friends, these small plates add variety to the table.
Desserts: Seasonal treats round out the menu, often homemade or sourced from local bakers.

On the drinks side, Kertem keeps it simple and affordable. You’ll find Hungarian craft beers, local wines, classic spritzers, and a few cocktails. Prices are tourist-friendly compared to central ruin pubs, making it a great spot to spend an entire evening without breaking the bank.

The vibe by season

Because Kertem is primarily an outdoor venue, the experience changes with the seasons.

Spring: The reopening in late April or early May is always a celebration. Locals flock back after winter hibernation, and the atmosphere is buzzing with anticipation.
Summer: This is peak Kertem season. Long evenings stretch under fairy lights, concerts fill the nights, and the garden feels like a festival ground. It’s the best time for first-time visitors.
Autumn: Cooler evenings bring a more relaxed crowd. Blankets sometimes appear, and the menu shifts slightly to heartier dishes. It’s cozy and less crowded, perfect for conversation.
Winter: The outdoor focus means Kertem is much quieter or even closed during the coldest months, so plan your visit in warmer weather.

Why Kertem is worth the trip

With so many bars and ruin pubs in Budapest’s city center, why make the effort to travel out to Kőbánya? Here are a few reasons:

Authenticity: While places like Szimpla Kert are iconic, they’ve also become heavily touristic. Kertem feels more local, more lived-in, and less commercial.
Affordability: Prices are fair, especially compared to downtown pubs. You can enjoy a full meal and drinks for the cost of a couple of cocktails elsewhere.
Community Spirit: Kertem isn’t just a place to drink; it’s a place to belong, even if only for an evening. The mix of people, music, and openness makes it easy to strike up conversations.
Unique Setting: The industrial-meets-garden vibe is unlike anywhere else. It’s a slice of Budapest’s creative reinvention, where old spaces become new cultural landmarks.

Tips for first-time visitors

Arrive Early on Weekends: Tables fill up quickly on Friday and Saturday nights.
Bring Cash: While cards are often accepted, cash makes things quicker.
Try the Balkan Burger: Even if you’re not hungry, share one with a friend. It’s part of the Kertem experience.
Check the Schedule: Look out for live music nights or themed events, which can make your visit even more memorable.
Explore Kőbánya: Since you’re already in the district, consider a short walk around. You’ll find historic brewery buildings and hints of the area’s industrial past.

Final thoughts

Kertem is more than just another ruin pub—it’s a living piece of Budapest’s cultural fabric. By relocating to Kőbánya, it has shown resilience and adaptability, proving that its spirit isn’t tied to a single location but to the community it creates. For tourists, visiting Kertem offers a chance to step outside the usual circuit of central bars and discover something more authentic, more local, and more soulful.

So next time you’re in Budapest and the evening calls for good food, relaxed drinks, and an atmosphere that feels like a friend’s garden party, make your way to Kertem. It may take a little extra effort to get there, but the reward is an unforgettable slice of Budapest nightlife.

FAQ

How do I get to Kertem from the city center?

The easiest way is by public transport: take Bus 9 from Deák Ferenc tér (about 20 minutes) or Tram 28/28A/62 from Blaha Lujza tér (around 15 minutes). Tram 1 from Népliget is also convenient. Free street parking is available if you come by car.

What kind of food is Kertem known for?

Kertem’s signature dish is the Balkan Burger, a pljeskavica-style patty served in flatbread. You’ll also find sausages, fresh salads, small plates, and seasonal desserts—perfect for sharing with friends.

Are there events at Kertem besides food and drinks?

Yes! Kertem hosts live music nights, garden cinema screenings, and even dog adoption events. The calendar changes by season, so it’s worth checking before you go.